Before we moved here I had been to
Durban maybe three times. And mostly to Ballito or to visit my in-laws on the
North Coast. Those don’t really count as visiting Durbs the city. When we moved down from Jozi I assumed it would be all surfing and settling down in the
burbs with a jungle garden and stifling humidity. I was happy with that. Hell,
it wasn't Joburg and I was more than ready to burb it up a little. Before
Joburg I lived in Cape Town for 5 years, so I’d always assumed that making
Durbs my final settling place was well…settling a little. But I would do it for
my hubby. And I grew up 600km down the coast in a much smaller city so I was well prepared right?
All
of those things were true: it’s hot as hades in midsummer, my garden is a
jungle (because all the pretty flowers are EATEN by HUMONGOUS BUGS) and I live
in the burbs. My hubby surfs before work. But I was also completely wrong.
Durbs is not settling at all. Cape Town is trendy and cosmopolitan and
wonderful. In summer. The winters are dreadful. I couldn't bear it. I had SAD,
I swear. Joburg is trendy and money and…bearable with all of the money. (Sorry guys,
I hated it. I’m sure you love it and I respect that.) Durbs, surprisingly, is
also trendy. And warm and wonderful. All year round. I don’t just mean the
weather either; the people are warm too. I've met the most amazing people in
this city, and while she tends to get the bronze medal in South Africa, I've come to love Durbs as the best. And I've done all three now, so I get to say
that. Here are some of my favourite places.
Cafe 1999 {Musgrave}
Bean Green Cafe {Glenwood}
oh and you have to go
antique shopping in the two stores next door. They also sell Bean Green coffee at the Durban Surf Lifesaving Club's cafe upstairs.
Mooki Noodles {Berea}
i heart market on a sunny Saturday morning…make sure to say hello to my
friends from Oak and Willow at their stall {next to Moses Mabida stadium}
The Lighthouse Bar at the Oyster Box Hotel {Umhlanga}
The views are beautiful and the cocktails strong. I have been known to toddle precariously down the marble stairs on the way out after one or three Tanqueray Mojitos. You have been warned.
Running, cycling, swimming in the sea, walking anywhere along the promenade from Ushaka to Blue Lagoon is safe, gorgeous and clean. Expect to see Durbanites from all walks of life, from meandering Indian aunties to yummy mummies on roller blades. My favourite is a quick run with my dogs at dawn. If you aren't a morning person, have brunch at Circus Circus and watch the world go by. {first picture above is at North Beach, 6am}
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